Compost Bins are helpful systems that efficiently break down household waste and yard waste, and transform these waste objects into valuable, high-potency compost that can be incredibly beneficial to soil. There are a few major types of compost bin design that can be used, and each has pros and cons. In this article, we’ll look carefully at each of these systems, and find the best compost bin design for various circumstances.
We’ll also look at a few product examples in the various categories and make a few recommendations.
How Composting Works
Whether waste is good or bad for the environment depends on how it is processed. If it’s thrown into a landfill, likely no one benefits from it, and it may well be that methane and other gases depart into the air, further polluting the atmosphere.
Household waste such as food, cardboard, paper and garden cuttings, can all be bad for the environment without oxygen to break it down. Waste in a landfill is not oxygenated very well, as it is too compact.
If you store certain waste in your garden, then it has better aeration, making it better for the environment. You may know such a process better by its name of “composting.” There have been many scientific studies done on this topic.
The Consequences of Not Composting
One such study estimates that if everyone stopped putting organic waste into the landfill, where it cannot oxygenate, it could stop 2.5 tons of CO2 from dispersing into the atmosphere.
This is the stuff of global warming, and a compost heap can give off 65% carbon into the atmosphere. Should we worry then, that composting emits carbon-nitrogen into the air? Fear not, you are only replicating what the earth has been performing since time began; burying waste in the best possible way. You are also improving you’re the soil richness in your own backyard.
In 2012, over 19 million tons of yard waste was composted in the US (source). That’s a lot of healthy gardens benefiting from the fertilizer produced by composting. Perhaps it’s time to add your waste to the helpful stream, as opposed to the land-fill stream!
The Building-Blocks of Compost
If you are a gardener, you may be familiar with the term, “Greens and Browns.” This refers to the natural materials used for the right balancing of composting.
Greens
Greens are nitrogen-rich, consisting of fresh and moist materials. The more nitrogen your pile has, then the warmer and more odorous it will be.
Browns
Browns are the carbonaceous materials, known as the ‘dry” ingredients. The more carbon your pile contains, then the lower the temperature. A cooler compost heap will not decompose so quickly.
Compost Temperature
A compost pile should be sustained at around 140F when balanced correctly with Greens and Browns.
Balancing Greens and Browns
If Greens and Browns are well balanced they will make the right Carbon-Nitrogen (CN) ratio for decomposing the materials.
There are varying recommendations of balance targets for Carbon and Nitrogen. Generally, you want about 30x the carbon to nitrogen for an ideal compost balance, but this ratio is not the same as the volume of material going into the bin! You don’t want 30x the greens to browns, as yard waste is not made up 100% of carbon, nor are kitchen scraps 100% nitrogen.
For a decent guideline, when filling the bin, look to be creating around 3 parts Green and 1 part Brown.
What Makes Up those Greens and Browns, and What Can You Compost?
Here’s an infographic that shows the basics of what can go into a compost bin or tumbler. This information is generally consistent throughout any compost bin design, though there may be some tweaks depending on what you choose. Be sure to check the instructions for each design so that you can optimize your system.
The Good
Greens:
- Food scraps such as vegetation and fruit.
- Ground coffee and the tea leaves from the insides of teabags. Most of the bags are not compostable.
- Certain manures, such as cow or chicken.
- Grass clippings.
- Fresh cuttings. Don’t use weeds that are seeding as they will sprout.
- Fallen Leaves.
- Thick plant stalks, but they will need breaking down.
- Seaweed.
Browns:
- Straw or hay.
- Sawdust, broken down bark.
- Small broken up twigs.
- Shredded paper and cardboard, including egg boxes.
- Shells from nuts, but crush them first.
- Pine needles, in small amounts only.
- Crushed eggshells, in small amounts as they add a particular mineral that you don’t want too much of.
The Bad
It helps to know what NOT to put in your compost heap:
- Pet waste or cat litter.
- Meat, fish or dairy products. While these will compost, they can attract wildlife pests and bad bacteria.
- Diapers, sanitary pads, or wet wipes.
- Plastic, glass, metal.
- Chemically-treated wood
- Diseased plants
Now that we have the basics of composting down, we’ll look at the various types of compost bins available, and discuss the pros and cons of each.
Best Compost Bin Design
Traditionally, compost was piled in a heap at the bottom of the yard area. Other methods included self-made open topped structures, usually made from wood.
You can now buy compost bins, both online or in garden centers, to store your compost.
The positive effects on the environment should be encouragement enough to start home composting. That is not the only benefit though. Once your waste has broken down, you gain a natural material to enrich your garden soil. This will provide rich food to trees, shrubs, vegetables, herbs, plants, and flowers.
Even if you don’t have a garden, there is a way you can compost your organic waste and use it in potted plants. Heck, you can even compost in an apartment if you want to!
To help you decide which composting system is best for your personal circumstances, consider the various ways of making compost. First though, what materials make up a good compost heap.
The Traditional Compost Heap
A traditional compost heap is literally a pile of compost mixed together. Often people use a few pieces of wood or old pallets, in a square or rectangle, to create a space for the heap.
Given that composting organic matter is a natural process, an open composting pile is ideal and incredibly simple. It provides plenty of oxygen aerating around. To encourage the airflow in your open heap, begin with a layer of broken twigs and branches. It will ensure that air flows upwards from the base.
There are a few ways you can make sure that your compost pile is working to its full potential:
Locating Your Compost Heap
Place your heap at the low point of the yard and away from your home. Layer it with Greens and Browns in the ratio we mentioned earlier. This method can be slow to break down but it will release the least amount of gas emissions.
Speeding Up the Compost Process
To speed up the decomposing process in your pile, you could first keep the Greens separate for a while. Throw your kitchen food waste into a medium sized bucket or garden bag.
Set it aside until it breaks down, stirring it occasionally. It will turn into mulch much quicker without the Browns.
It may also emit some smelly gasses, so you might need to put a cover or lid over the top. The smellier it is, the higher the content of nitrogen.
Once it resembles mulch, use this for the Green layer in your final compost pile.
Use Multiple, Small Piles
Instead of creating layers of Greens and Browns in the big pile, create smaller ones before they get there.
Have a lidded kitchen-sized bin where you can create mini Green and Brown layers. When it’s full, tip it on to your final pile. This way there are lots of smaller layers in your heap, rather than one large one.
If you follow these steps, your compost will break down more quickly.
Timespan for a Compost Heap
It is difficult to place a timespan on when your compost turns into fertilizer and ready for use in the garden. That’s is because it depends how much you process it, such as turning and aerating. The wetter it is the warmer it will be, but the more emissions you will have. An example could be:
The traditional layering of Greens and Browns can take up to 2 years to turn into mulch.
This is fine if you have a few smaller heaps at different stages.
- Creating lots of smaller layers instead of one large heaped layer can take around 6 months.
- Breaking down the Greens first is the fastest way. Your mulch should be ready after 3 months from starting the final heap. To break the Greens down before you layer them in the final compost pile, does not need to take up much space or cost too much.
Garden Bags
Having a few reusable garden bags on hand will likely make the composting process much quicker and easier if you’re managing a compost heap.
Glorytec 3-Pack 80 Gallons Garden Bag – Extra Large Reusable Leaf Bags
Last update on 2024-11-03 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
- Made from quality woven Polypropylene (PP) which is waterproof, tear-resistant and lightweight.
- Each bag features four handles for strength and ease of movement.
- Large size: Height 33″ , Diameter 26″
- Capacity: 80 gallon
Robust and sturdy, they will store all your separate Greens and Browns until you are ready to put them together in a larger compost heap.
Compost Accelerators
If you are in a hurry to get your final compost into the garden area, you could add a natural accelerator to speed up the decomposing process.
A homemade solution could be a mixture of water, beer for the yeast, cola for the sugar, and household ammonia for the nitrogen. It’s a strange mixture, but each ingredient has the bacterium needed to break down organic waste.
To make it easier, you could by a natural product, such as this accelerator here.
GreenPig Compost Accelerator
Last update on 2024-11-02 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
- Comes as 12 water-soluble pouches.
- Each pouch is enough for a compost pile of 9 cubic feet
- Converts organic waste in 30 days.
- Works by using beneficial bacterial cultures.
- Also controls bad odors.
Easy to use by wetting your compost pile and then pouring over the sachet that has melted in 1-2 gallons of water.
It does mean having a wet compost heap, but the pouches should deal with the bad smells of a warm heap.
You will need to treat it weekly, for up to 4 weeks. You can even keep adding to the compost heap throughout this process, so long as you stir in the new with the old.
Many gardeners swear by accelerators, while others prefer to take their time and let nature do it at its own speed.
How to Build your Compost Heap
- Choose a spot in your yard that is farthest away from your home. It will attract fruit flies and such insects, and it may smell, especially in warmer weather.
- Find a well-drained area where rainwater can run off naturally.
- You want to encourage the world of nature to enter your pile as they create air pockets. Worms and even ants should always be welcome guests because they speed up the process.
- If you have an open compost heap, in the winter you should cover it with a tarpaulin or ground sheet. This will help to stop it becoming soggy. Don’t seal it too well though, it needs to continue breathing.
Advantages of a Compost Heap
- It is very natural, though the more you help it, the less natural it remains.
- It is cheap and does not need to cost anything to run if you leave it alone.
- It is environmentally friendly, as the breaking down of the waste you are using would not be done as natural in a landfill.
- It is easy to maintain. The least maintenance you need to do is aerate it with a garden fork every now and then. This helps to create air pockets and stops it becoming compressed.
- It will attract regular wildlife visitors in search of food. This may be good or bad, dependent upon your own views.
Disadvantages of a Compost Heap
- It can get smelly if it gets too warm. This usually means you need to add more Browns. Though it also means it’s breaking down quickly.
- It can attract the wrong type of insects who want to lay eggs in your waste. Wildlife creatures will also be attracted in search of a free meal. This may be good or bad depending upon your own views.
- It does take some effort in sorting out the waste you create. Some people might consider it much easier simply placing it all in the bin collection process.
- It cannot be done if you don’t have a large enough yard area.
- Some would argue it is not environmentally friendly to even consider creating a compost pile. Yet, you are doing what the forest itself would do over time, decomposing waste.
Compost Bins
If you don’t like the idea of a compost heap piled up in your yard, all is not lost. Many people find the traditional heap unsightly and unnecessarily large, but still want to use composting techniques. This is where one of the many designs of compost bins will come in handy.
Ground-based compost bins come in all shapes and sizes and are made from all kinds of materials, from industrial plastic to stainless steel. Shapes also vary from small or large buckets to drums on a frame that rotate to mix up the contents easier. All have lids or hinged doors, but you don’t necessarily need the lid or door closed all the time. If you’re trying to decide between a tumbling composter and a ground-based composter, see our article here for help.
You could make a compost frame yourself by building a wooden fence all around your loose compost heap and adding a wooden lid. This will at least keep the pile out of sight.
More and more gardeners are choosing manufactured composting bins. They help to keep the waste compact and make the pile more manageable and keep you on the task of composting rather than building.
To guide you in which compost bin will serve your needs better, here are a few different types to consider.
Ground-Based Compost Bins
There are many designs for ground-based bins, such as the Redmon compost bin (reviewed here), the Geobin (reviewed here), and one of our favorites, the Algreen Soilsaver Classic (reviewed fully here). We’ll take a brief look at the Algreen now, as it is a great example of the traditional compost bin style, and its use is pretty representative of what you’ll need to do to use a compost bin.
These units are almost always very simple to assemble and are often made of recycled materials.
Algreen SoilSaver Classic
Last update on 2024-11-03 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
- Made from environmentally friendly recycled materials to a thickness that helps to keep in the heat.
- Plenty of aeration points.
- Latching, locking, self-watering lid.
- Two sliding doors for access at the base.
- Capacity of 12 cubic feet.
- Comes with instructions on how to make the perfect fertilizer.
- Open bottom for worm and insect access.
Using a Ground-Based Composter
The idea with most of these compost bins is that you keep adding materials at the top. When you churn to oxygenate, the smaller decomposed parts slip through to the bottom. What is at the bottom has been there longest, and becomes finished compost.
To access it, you simply open the door situated at the bottom and pull it out.
Disadvantages of Ground-Based Composters
One of the difficulties of a large bucket style composting bin is churning the contents. You will need to stab the contents of the bin with a large stick, pitchfork, or shovel to allow a good air flow. Then turn the materials around the best you can.
This can be a lot of work!
However, it is worthwhile, as turning it over every few days to a week will speed up the composting process significantly. In the classic model like the Algreen above, the readily available fertilizer ends up at the bottom of the bin as it is heaviest.
An additional problem is the fact that these units are placed on the ground, and have doors that rats, rodents, and other pests can enter. While they’re much more protected than, say, a compost heap, a ground-based compost bin can still be infested with vermin and pests.
The Bottom Line
The Algreen compost bin is a great choice for a ground-based composter. For more information on this unit, see our Algreen SoilSaver Review here. These systems, in general, can work quite well, are much more compact and have smaller footprints than compost heaps, and are cleaner, more controlled, and effective.
However, they have their drawbacks. Turning the compost inside the bin can be difficult, and rodents and pests are still a problem with these.
If you struggle with this process then consider a tumbler composting bin as a better option.
Tumbling Composters
Like ground-based bins, there are many varieties of compost tumblers at a variety of price points and designs.
These units are essentially barrels attached to a stand. The compost gets mixed by rotating the barrel, and the whole system is self-contained and quite simple. There’s no need to turn the compost with a shovel or pitchfork; you just rotate the barrel a couple of times and you’re good to go!
Compost Tumblers tend to produce compost in a much more rapid time frame than compost heaps or compost bins. Some can produce compost in a matter of weeks to a month or so, depending on ratio, placement, heat, and the like. The speed and efficiency of a compost tumbler is a big plus.
Multiple-Chambers vs. Single Chamber
What is a bit unusual about these barrels is that once you start a batch of compost, you can’t add fresh materials to it without resetting the time frame of your compost cook. Consequently, you may need to manage your compost in compost bags or in a prep-area, which is inefficient, unsightly, and a pain. You could also get two compost tumblers, but that may get expensive.
The ideal solution to this is to use a dual-chamber compost tumbler. These have two separate chambers (though air is allowed to flow between them). In one chamber, you cook the compost over a few weeks, while in the other you store materials for your next “batch”. You swap back and forth when one side is done.
Additionally, the assembly time and complexity for compost tumblers are almost always significant, so be prepared to do some drilling, screwing, hammering, and the like to get one of these set up properly.
There are loads of different takes on the compost tumbler design, from the expensive Jora JK270 (reviewed here) to the inexpensive dual chamber Yimby (reviewed here), to the high-quality single-chamber Mantis tumbler (reviewed here).
Below we’ll look at the EJWOX dual-chamber compost tumbler. It is representative of the style. If you want to learn all about how to use a compost tumbler, see here.
EJWOX Dual Chamber Tumbler Compost Bin
Last update on 2024-11-03 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
- This particular model has dual chambers. A double chamber allows you to have varying stages on the go at the same time.
- Sliding doors for access.
- 43-gallon capacity in total.
- Drum rotates 360 degrees.
- Size: 28.5 x 26 x 37 inches
- Weight: 26 lbs.
- Assembly required but comes with a manual.
Yes, each of the chambers in this unit is small and low capacity. But by using a dual-chamber system, you’ll be regularly, and rapidly, making small batches of compost. You won’t need much of a staging area to place materials before they go in the compost bin.
If space is a premium, a dual-chamber design like the EJWOX is ideal.
Unlike some compost tumblers, the doors on this unit are not animal proof so this may be a disadvantage if you live with roaming wildlife. You’ll have to spend more to get a rodent-proof dual chamber model.
There are many other drum models to consider, and this design overall does make the churning of the whole pile a lot easier. The contents become mixed together easily and will decompose at the same time. Whereas in the classic model, the decomposed fertilizer is at the bottom of the pile.
Additionally, many of these tumblers are raised off the ground, and you can often just pull your wheelbarrow underneath and empty the contents in. Easy as pumpkin pie!
Worm Composter Systems
Worm-Powered Compost systems are the weird step-sisters of the compost bin family. These bins use worms to process the compost ingredients and to produce high quality, mega-fertilizing compost in the end.
But: worms!
The very idea might make you squirm a little, but really, this sort of system is clean, safe, and relatively smell-free. Once your worms are placed in the trays, you don’t even really need to interact with them much, and there’s very little chance of them escaping (why would they want to?)
Last update on 2024-11-03 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Like the other compost systems on our list, worm composting systems (aka vermicomposting) models come in all shapes and sizes. They make great homes for happy worms with no cruelty involved whatsoever. Besides, worms are a hardy lot, and can even survive freezing on the odd occasion. Worms are so versatile they don’t even mind mold, it’s only humans that think mold to be unhealthy.
That said they can drown so it’s still important to tend to your heap, as with any other type of composting method.
Don’t worry about their home becoming overrun with too many worms, they only lay eggs when there’s enough space to do so.
What is a worm’s favorite food to eat? They love the contents of tea bags, ground coffee leftovers, and vegetation. They’re not keen on onions, spices, dairy or meat.
You might find yourself becoming fond of your wormery as you tend to your “bed.” Though they are natures composters and don’t need too much help.
The idea is that the worms like to live in the top spaces chomping on all the fresh goodies. What they eat passes through them and comes out of the other end as castings. These castings are the foundation of a natural and top quality fertilizer.
Let’s look at a simple model and compare it to a more popular design. This may help to better understand how your wormery functions.
Urban Worm Company Bag Version 2
Last update on 2024-11-02 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
- Made from tough, breathable Oxford fabric, with reinforced stitching and a polyurethane coating for moisture resistance.
- Sturdy metal frame 32 inches tall, with strong connectors.
- Bag size 22 inches tall.
- Weight 7.5lbs.
- Leakproof.
- Feed through either of top 2 zippers.
- Finished product comes out of bottom.
- Marine grade nylon zippers that do not corrode.
- Produces 5.3 cubic feet volume of fertilizer over a 4-6 month period.
- Lifetime warranty!
There is a bag-only model without a frame if preferred, but the bag does get heavy. The urban worm composter is meant to be kept indoors, as it is not rodent-proof.
Do not keep the system in the sun, or your worms will bake. Should the temperature get too hot in the worm composter, then place a frozen carton/bottle of water to help reduce the humidity in the bag.
Assembly is easy and can be completed in 10-15 mins. Vermicompost is not provided with the bag and frame. It is a good idea to start with a layer of ready-made vermicompost if you can, but it is not necessary. This method simply speeds up the process to get the system started.
The system is a “constant flow,” which means that you put your waste in the top, and the fertilizer comes ready-made through the bottom, once it gets going. At full volume, it can hold up to 8 1b of worms. Though it’s better to start off with around 1-2lb as they then lay eggs if the environment is right. As the worms stay within the top 6 inches of the composting materials, you should not have any worms in the finished fertilizer.
They will crawl to the top and their droppings or castings drop behind them. When you come to harvest, give the bag a gentle tap on the sides to loosen castings downwards.
Urban Worm Company is yet another innovative composting company that really do care about their product and their customers. They have an ongoing blog for advice, great customer services, and they continue to improve the product based on any problematic areas.
VermiTek 5-Tray Worm Compost System
Last update on 2024-10-31 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
- Made from 100% recyclable plastic.
- Overall Size H16.5 x W16.5 x D12.5 inches
- Tray sizes H11.2″ x W11.25 x D5 inches
- Weight 15 lb
- Comes in dark green but their advertising image looks blue.
- 5 stacking trays.
- Also included are a coconut brick, drain cloths, and a spigot.
- Has lots of air ventilation holes.
- Also provides compost tea for liquid fertilizer.
The groove where the liquid fertilizer drains through can sometimes become clogged with worms. Simply pick them out and put them back into a higher tray.
Some customers report that the model it is not vermin tight, so you could have issues with mice. Others don’t like the ventilation holes based at the top as they are quite large, for a fruit fly anyway. They use it as a fruit fly hotel.
The worms can climb between the trays. The idea is to fill one tray and move it down. That should mean that the bottom tray will be ready first. Most of the worms will have migrated to the upper trays, where it is fresher. When you harvest the last tray at the bottom, there should be no worms in it, or at least very few.
The cloths are for stopping worms from entering the liquid tea. Place them at the bottom between the last tray and a plastic board that slots in there. They are washable and reusable.
Conclusion
It seems almost criminal to send all your waste to the landfill, there really is no need!
Instead, do your bit for the environment and for your garden too. For those of us who have large yards, you can choose any sort of compost system and have great success. For those with small yards, it’s probably best to stick with a compost bin or tumbler. And if you only have a balcony, you could give worm composting a try, or perhaps Bokashi Composting if worms give you the creepy-crawlies.
The compost is a dynamite soil feeder and can be used indoors and outdoors to bring your plants to life. Even if you don’t need the fertilizer, you can always give it away. That way you are doing two good deeds; recycling and giving.
If you are an avid gardener, then you know the benefits of a well-fertilized soil. Enriching it with such natural ingredients that have broken down in your compost heap, is a perfect way to achieve the most nutritious soil.
This is a must for vegetable growers. Your crops will be larger and healthier and tastier, as a result of using a natural fertilizer.
If you’re unsure that it’s something you want to do, then start small. You can start up a small classic compost heap while you decide if you want to invest in a bin. One thing for sure, if you already buy-in lots of fertilizer for your garden, then you are going to save money by recycling your own organic waste.
That makes it good for the environment and good for your pocket.
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